What Did You Just Say?

"Beauty comes as much from the mind as from the eye." - Grey Livingston

Fat. A word used to describe some women here. On several occasions, I have heard male staff members tell female staff members that they are getting too “fat”. And these men just came right out and said it in front of everyone. Did your jaw drop open in disbelief? Well, mine surely did! No thought was given to showing any ounce of sensitivity or concern for these particular women’s feelings. Also, several weeks ago while watching the students play soccer, a man sitting next to me said, “That fat girl really tries!” Needless to say, I was appalled hearing the word “fat” used so loosely. Who wants to get called out on their weight in front of colleagues!? In America, if someone were to go up to a woman and call her fat, why, she would be incredibly offended and would either start crying or screaming at the culprit for being so rude! However, these women in the staff room just brushed off the comment and continued on with their day. From what I’ve heard, being thick or “fat” is more socially acceptable in black culture than amongst whites. Apparently, this isn’t the preference for all black men. I’ve been told on several occasions that women are the most powerful people in Ghana. If that’s the case, these men and their “fat” should beware.

Speaking of getting fat…Eugene, the P.E. teacher, treated me to dinner yesterday evening. He drove me to a nearby hotel, The Orange Hotel. Though I jog with this man several mornings a week and see him often around campus, I initially questioned the choice of venue, but later came to find that it was rather delightful. Eugene ordered us two plates of fried rice and chicken, and rather than sit there and wait, we took a ride down the road to a town called Tepa. As we drove, I found the landscape stunningly beautiful. Rows and rows of plantain trees covered densely green rolling hills while the setting sun hovered in the background. Small villages were scattered all along the road as well, and each is filled with small fires of burning trash, pots over coal stoves, and people pumping at water wells which contain water that is safe for drinking. People bring large empty jugs to the well, fill them up, and drag them home. As we drove, men, women, and children spotted the road carrying their water jugs or goods for sale on their heads. No matter how many times I see people carrying things on their head, I am still always impressed. It is not uncommon to see a woman with a baby strapped to her back and a large load of yams, kenkey, or cloth in a large metal tin balanced on her head. Amazing. I mean, my arm gets tired from carrying a purse people. As we drove back to the hotel for dinner, I began to more fully understand all of the warnings that have been given about the dangers of traveling at night. Once the sun goes down, the roadways become scarily dark. No lines on the pavement and no streetlights to guide the way. In addition, there are no sidewalks for people, so they hug the side of the road when returning to their villages from the town. As everyone says here, “it’s not easy”.

Eugene and I safely returned to the Orange Hotel where our dinner was served. That chicken leg was absolutely delicious. The primary source of protein here is beans and an occasional egg, so having a chunk of poultry placed before me! Well, needless to say, I was ecstatic. We sat in a small restaurant area within the hotel lobby area. Next to my chair was a stereo with a stack of cassette tapes next to it. This gave me little chuckle. I can’t even tell you the last time that I saw a cassette tape, except in the movie Eat, Pray, Love where Julia’s man in Bali makes mixed tapes for his loved ones. It was nice to get out and see a new place with a new friend.

Today I will venture to the post office for the first time in the hopes that the care package my parents mailed is in fact there as I was told yesterday. Then, tomorrow I am off to Cape Coast for a much-needed getaway to visit a familiar face. I’m told they have cheese and yogurt in those parts. This brings me immense joy. J