Happy New Year!

Be always at war with your vices, at peace with your neighbors, and let each new year find you a better man. -- Benjamin Franklin

My New Year’s Eve celebration was spent at Oasis Beach Resort in Cape Coast, Ghana. Surprisingly, the place was swarming with obrunis! I mean, I know a lot of whites hang out at this place being that there are many tour groups and volunteers here in Cape Coast, but it felt like I flew home for the evening. It ended up being a typical American-style New Year’s Eve. Though it started out authentically African with traditional music and dancing, eventually the evening spiraled into a club-type atmosphere, much to my dismay. Clubbin’ isn’t so much my thing, and I don’t generally find joy in random strangers trying to hit on me or the meat-market mentality of some of the patrons. So, Sonia boogied down with an African and I did my usual people-watching. J I was perfectly content. At midnight fireworks went off on the beach and two ginormous bonfires blazed. I squeezed in a game of pool with an African man named Abdul, who could have slaughtered me within minutes if he really wanted to, but he gave this obruni a chance. Overall, it was a pleasant evening and I got to continue my little tradition of celebrating New Year’s in another country. 2010 was Chiang Mai, Thailand, 2011 was Venice, Italy, and now 2012 was here in Cape Coast Ghana. Not a bad deal.

New Year’s Goals.

I’m going to call them “goals” rather than “resolutions”. I mean, really people, resolutions are impossible. It’s basically a way to set yourself up for failure because they are always impossible and over-the-top. But, to set some goals and actively shift some of your thoughts seems more reasonable and possible to actually adhere to. My life here in Ghana has definitely prompted some of these goals.

1. Minimize the amount of food I take in that comes out of a box. The majority of my meals here are made with all natural products and minimal salt. Here, I’m not eating much of anything from a box and I feel good. Lighter and more sure of the idea that I’m not killing myself with sodium. Why buy a disgusting box of hamburger helper when I can make my own version with some fresh veggies instead? Rhiannon will be so proud of me. J

2. Minimize the amount of soda I drink. Same thing as above. I’m not saying I will never drink a coke, because I love soft drinks. But, more water is better and is making me feel tons less bloated.

3. Work out at least 4 times a week. There is absolutely no reason why I can’t do this. And it doesn’t have to be some crazy intense three-hour workout. Thirty good minutes of cardio in several times a week and some targeted toning exercises. Doing this in the last few months has made me feel more energetic and less heavy. No reason I can’t keep this up stateside.

4. Keep writing. More than just keeping my friends and family updated on my adventures, writing has become a time for me to decompress and chill out.

5. Work on becoming an extraordinary teacher. I would put myself in the good category right now. In my years of teaching elementary school, I screwed up really bad so many times. I complained constantly about behaviors and mishandled tons of situations. I also watched other teachers do the same and have learned a ton. Though I think I have a good handle on planning and delivery of instruction, to be this extraordinary teacher, I have to work on consistency and better handling my responses to ridiculous behaviors. Counting to ten and breathing works wonders.

This list could go on and on…..but I’m going to keep it reasonable in the hopes that I will avoid total failure.

Happy New Year! Cheers to 2012!

Cape Coast Castle

“Injustice anywhere is a threat to justice everywhere.” – Martin Luther King Jr.

Today was devoted to exploring Cape Coast Castle with my pal Sonia. The castle was built by the Portuguese in the 15^th century, but eventually ruled by the Dutch and was originally used for trading timber and gold. However, ultimately the castle was utilized for keeping and transporting slaves as part of the Trans-Atlantic slave trade. Stepping foot in a piece of history is a powerful experience. Specifically stepping foot inside of slave dungeons is not only powerful, but rather haunting as well. A tour of the castle leads to the dungeon areas, the tunnel through which slaves traveled to their departing vessels, and various cells for punishment. One such cell was reserved for what were called the “freedom fighters”, which were slaves who literally tried to fight for their freedom and as a result were punished. The cell is a closed in room, about ten feet by ten feet with absolutely no lighting. Men were left there to die because they chose to fight rather than completely surrender.

On the opposite side of the castle was the “Door of No Return” where slaves crawled through, while shackled, to board westward-bound ships. Passing through this door led the slaves to a new life with a new name in a faraway land. Each dungeon had shallow canals running down the middle of the floor and along some walls where feces and vomit would drain to. When it rained, water rushed through the windows at the top of one wall and supposedly rinsed out these tunnels, all while dead bodies rotted and suffering slaves moaned in agony. Ironically, a church was set just above the dungeons. Beyond the structural features of the slave castle, the more daunting aspects of the tour are the feelings conjured up while walking amidst the horrible ghosts of humanity's past. The pain and unnecessary suffering endured within those walls is unbearably sad and truly overwhelming to even imagine. People can be so unbelievably cruel and heartless, and to know that my own race contributed to an injustice such as slavery makes me feel a little ashamed.

At the end of the tour, the guide showed a plaque that is posted encouraging visitors to spread the word about the history of the castle in the hopes that such practices of cruelty will never happen again. In theory, a noble idea. But look at the world today! In the 1990s, blacks were owned by the Arabs in the Sudan and traded for $15 a piece. In India, children are taken from their homes and forced to work on looms in exchange for food. Young girls are sold into prostitution in Thailand. The world is a seriously messed up place. Unfortunately, the notions of servitude and slavery are still going strong in many cultures today, not only Africa. Sadly, I see it every day at my college where young people are expected to work and work and work with no compensation. Free labor for the teachers. It’s wrong wrong wrong.

To the Cape!

“The cure for anything is salt water – sweat, tears, or the sea.” – Isak Dinesen

Thursday morning I boarded a Metro Mass Transit bus for a weekend in Cape Coast with a fellow volunteer. Exactly what I needed to rejuvenate. Though I have visited Cape Coast before, it was a different experience as a return visitor and when it was simply a weekend getaway planned on my own versus part of a weeklong obruni (white person) tour.

I enjoyed the memories of my past visit and more thoroughly reveled in the beauty of it all this time around. Thanks to a national holiday on Monday, I was able to stay one extra day and do a little venting, a little eating, and a whole lot of sightseeing with the other Amy, who because she also has brown hair and white skin, everyone assumed was my twin. Oh Africa. Sigh…..A touch of American life creeped onto the agenda as well. Cocoa puffs with milk, grilled cheddar cheese sandwiches and yogurt. Oh yea.

Cape Coast is a bustling coastal community. Fish, fish, and more fish. Roaming the Kotokaruba market is an exercise in patience and alertness. Taxis get the right away in these parts, so get out of the way, or suffer the consequences. From shoes to bread to clothing to vegetables to books to ice cream….this market has everything anyone could possibly need. I half jokingly told the other Amy that I could have showed up in Ghana with an empty suitcase and very easily found everything I needed to live. In Cape Coast, you will find many white volunteers, and they like to hang out at the Oasis where a dose of familiarity is available with some good ole’ American cuisine. A view of ocean waves crashing the shore doesn’t hurt this place’s ambience either.

Saturday night included an African drum and dance show. The joy radiating from the musicians and dancers is contagious. It’s hard not to smile and tap your foot to the beat of the African drum. Love of the arts is strong in African culture. I dig it.

To escape the city, we ventured about twenty minutes east to a small piece of heaven-on-earth called Anomabu Beach Resort.

Upon arrival we happened upon beautiful sandy beaches, families frolicking along the coast, and delicious coconut shrimp and cheesy pizzas. Our accommodation for the night was a tent set up right near a lovely hut umbrella and two cushion covered lounge chairs. We strolled the beach, relaxed while listening to the sounds of the ocean, and enjoyed some delicious boxed sangria.

Can’t go wrong with that combination! Anomabu stole my heart. I’m totally mesmerized by the ocean and island life and messages in bottles and people living on deserted islands....I often get “Lost” in the idea of being a “Castaway” ;)

Our weekend culminated at Kakum National Park. We conquered the canopy walk, which happens to be about 120 feet above the ground and is ranked third in the entire world for excellence. Two Canadian fellas helped out some Ghanaians to construct this adventure about sixteen years ago.

It's amazing. Incredible. Breathtaking. As I walked across foot-wide wooden boards held in place by large bolts and intricately woven ropes, I couldn’t help but smile and marvel at the vastness of the dense, greenery of the rain forest below me. We even snagged some bottled pure honey along the trail. Delicious!Lunch followed at the Hans Cottage Botel which is a restaurant hovering above a swamp filled with friendly crocodiles!

I needed this weekend. I needed to see some beauty and enjoy Ghana. I haven’t had a very positive attitude about my time here thus far, but Cape Coast, you turned things around for me! Though this whole experience may not be all that I hoped it would be professionally, I am going to enjoy what Africa has to offer me and savor the freedom and opportunities to explore.

A Road Trip to Home

“A journey of a thousand miles must begin with a single step.” –Lao Tzu

I have arrived to my home for the next 9 months….Bechem, Ghana! The trip here was long, bumpy, and full of intriguing African scenery. This morning was spent in Cape Coast with my principal’s driver taking me around town. Apparently having a driver is the thing to do here, which is interesting to me, but useful! Who wants to drive themselves 6 hours, why not just hire someone to do it? The driver, Steven, and I engaged in rather interesting conversation about America. He is completely fascinated and on a mission to move to California and marry a white American lady. Question after question was asked about every aspect of American society. That Puff Daddy and Jay-Z have bodyguards was shocking to him! To Steven, reaching America would be a dream come true. As I think about the state of affairs in America, my perception is so different. I see a country with, in my opinion, disturbing policies and somewhat wack priorities. I continually try to escape America, yet so many are working so hard to try to come to it.

Cape Coast is a bustling place. Full of markets, people, and fish. Cape Coast University guesthouses were where I stayed. Lovely indeed! Two slave castles also reside there, which I visited on my previous trip to Ghana in 2008. Simply glancing in the direction of the castles makes your heart skip a beat. Unbelievable and revolting history lies within those walls. The journey onward to Bechem was a mix of pristine roadways and terribly dilapidated roadways. Villages speckled the roadside every few miles or so. Women carrying containers of goods and foods on their heads move swiftly to stopped tro-tros and taxis along the roadway. Droves of children were seen walking home from school along the sides of the road or playing soccer in their schoolyards. Huts fill many villages with women and children manning the shops and men frequently repairing taxis and to-dos. The life looks harder here on these roads leading out of the city. Escaping Accra provides insight into a much different African life.

My new home is rather swanky. I’m temporarily staying in an apartment while my place is being renovated. Fridge, running water, and a television! And the internet connection is stronger than I was expecting. Not the Africa I’m sure most people have envisioned. All the comforts of home right here at my little fingertips. Sweet! I’m being very very well taken care of by my school and organization. Upon arrival at my school today, I was greeted kindly by various members of the staff and several students. Immediately, several gentlemen got right to work in my room hanging curtains, moving the bed, and checking the water. The pampering is new for me, and nonetheless, it’s happening in Africa of all places! So far, we’re off to a great start here with my first steps in Bechem.