A Road Trip to Home

“A journey of a thousand miles must begin with a single step.” –Lao Tzu

I have arrived to my home for the next 9 months….Bechem, Ghana! The trip here was long, bumpy, and full of intriguing African scenery. This morning was spent in Cape Coast with my principal’s driver taking me around town. Apparently having a driver is the thing to do here, which is interesting to me, but useful! Who wants to drive themselves 6 hours, why not just hire someone to do it? The driver, Steven, and I engaged in rather interesting conversation about America. He is completely fascinated and on a mission to move to California and marry a white American lady. Question after question was asked about every aspect of American society. That Puff Daddy and Jay-Z have bodyguards was shocking to him! To Steven, reaching America would be a dream come true. As I think about the state of affairs in America, my perception is so different. I see a country with, in my opinion, disturbing policies and somewhat wack priorities. I continually try to escape America, yet so many are working so hard to try to come to it.

Cape Coast is a bustling place. Full of markets, people, and fish. Cape Coast University guesthouses were where I stayed. Lovely indeed! Two slave castles also reside there, which I visited on my previous trip to Ghana in 2008. Simply glancing in the direction of the castles makes your heart skip a beat. Unbelievable and revolting history lies within those walls. The journey onward to Bechem was a mix of pristine roadways and terribly dilapidated roadways. Villages speckled the roadside every few miles or so. Women carrying containers of goods and foods on their heads move swiftly to stopped tro-tros and taxis along the roadway. Droves of children were seen walking home from school along the sides of the road or playing soccer in their schoolyards. Huts fill many villages with women and children manning the shops and men frequently repairing taxis and to-dos. The life looks harder here on these roads leading out of the city. Escaping Accra provides insight into a much different African life.

My new home is rather swanky. I’m temporarily staying in an apartment while my place is being renovated. Fridge, running water, and a television! And the internet connection is stronger than I was expecting. Not the Africa I’m sure most people have envisioned. All the comforts of home right here at my little fingertips. Sweet! I’m being very very well taken care of by my school and organization. Upon arrival at my school today, I was greeted kindly by various members of the staff and several students. Immediately, several gentlemen got right to work in my room hanging curtains, moving the bed, and checking the water. The pampering is new for me, and nonetheless, it’s happening in Africa of all places! So far, we’re off to a great start here with my first steps in Bechem.

Movin' On Up

“Of journeying the benefits are many: the freshness it bringeth to the heart, the seeing and hearing of marvelous things, the delight of beholding new cities, the meeting of unknown friends, and the learning of high manners” -- Muslih-uddin Sadi

My journey to Bechem begins tomorrow evening. The principals of the universities will be here in Accra for the day, then I will leave to Cape Coast for an overnight stay and onward to Bechem on Friday morning. After months of anticipation, I finally will arrive at my destination. Professionally, I feel ready. I’ve got the IFESH expectations on my mind and the required reports for submission in my hand. With several years of teaching experience under my belt, I’m eager to share my knowledge and serve as a support to the Ghanaian people. Helping to further develop an education system? I’m beyond thrilled! I am a nerd to the max and I don’t care what anyone else says; education is what changes people’s lives. I’m a part of all that, which I think is pretty damn cool.

Saying goodbye to the Ghana Crew will be tough. I’m really lucky to have met such powerful and inspiring women, and they will all hold a special place in my heart for the rest of my life. In the months ahead, I truly hope that our plans to meet up, visit, and travel together come to fruition and that these ties continue to bind. Partners in crime are comforting when exploring a new place and adapting to a new culture. Strength in numbers for sure. Thanks ladies! However, saying goodbye to Accra won’t be nearly as heartbreaking. It’s an amazing city, but I’ve had my fill of exhaust fumes and bumper-to-bumper taxi rides. I will for sure be back Accra, but for now, I’m out!

So, the time has come for me to venture out on my own. I’m nervous. I’m terrified. I’m super pumped. Let’s do this!

Nice To Meet You

“You meet people who forget you. You forget people you meet. But sometimes you meet those people you can't forget.”

Today, at the Cultural Art Center in Accra, we strolled in and I met David. With his warm Ghanaian demeanor, he shook my hand and taught me a friendly finger snap. He then proceeded to follow me around the center. This is what happens. The Cultural Art Center is a very touristy place to visit with the Kwame Nkrumah museum next door. Jewelry, clothing, drums, shoes, bags, home décor…the list goes on. One shop welcomed us to Ghana with a drumbeat that was peppy enough to get my head bobbin. When new blood shows up, the men and women selling goods attack. It’s overwhelming and intimidating, and so important to stand your ground, because the prices offered are often far higher than they should be. Avoiding eye contact and saying no thank you helped me breeze through the center

I also met a man named Colin Powell. Not that Colin Powell, apparently, the Ghanaian one. I highly doubt this was his real name, but he was obviously trying to appeal to my American mind, and it worked. When I disclosed that I was from Chicago, he immediately reminded me that the capital of Illinois was Springfield and how wrong he thought it was that it wasn’t Chicago. Love it! He knew the capital of every state in America and was more than proud to share this information with me. Colin kindly showed me around the Art Center hunting down my friends, but his ulterior motive was clearly my money. He had shop #26 at the center full of wooden goods. I couldn’t resist and got an elephant for my niece. That thirst for knowledge about the world impressed me and I figured buying one of his products was the least I could do to repay him for helping me find my friends.

I am so happy to be here. For real happy. I’m really looking forward to leaving Accra and its busy expensive style. More than ready for Bechem!

Taking It All In

Without struggle, no progress and no result. -- George Gurdjieff

Some blood, a police checkpoint, and a stroll on the beach. Essentially sums up the past weekend. A visit to the doctor for a physical proved to be absolutely no different from a visit to my doctor in Chicago. A young doctor examined us all and expressed his strong interest in coming to the U.S. My previous 1-month visit to Ghana marked me as a Ghanaian according to this man, and I, again, felt warmly welcomed to this nation full of kind and content people. Now regarding that police checkpoint. Sonia’s friend drives us to dinner. We eat, drink, and feel merry. The merry feeling was soon interrupted though by a drive through Legon, a higher-class neighborhood in Accra. Periodic police checkpoints line the road, and our stop resulted in a longer pause than was anticipated by any of us. Our driver was requested to leave the vehicle and open his trunk for inspection. He obliged and was then asked for money. Apparently, such bribes are common practice at police checkpoints. Upon returning to the driver’s seat, our driver told us that the police were primarily jealous of the fact that he was in a car with five women. And 10 cedis was apparently going to appease him. Thankfully this story had a happy ending and we went on to hear some music in Osu, and safely land in our beds later that evening. Sunday was a day full of relaxation at Labadi beach, hanging with and better getting to know my colleagues.

Exploring Accra is an intriguing, but somewhat disturbing lesson in contrasts. All around are buildings in the process of being constructed. People pay cash for everything here, even the $400,000 homes across the street from our hotel. One year the foundation may be paid for, the next the first floor, and so on and so forth. All paid in cash. Hence why a large home may take years to complete. While America lives on credit, Africans seem far more financially responsible. Who needs Suze Orman to teach you about saving money? Come to Africa and see good financial decision making in action. While large mansions are being constructed in one area, just down the way you may see families living in broken cement buildings or small huts. On one side of a street you will see banks filled with men in suits, while on the other side you will see a woman carrying used bottles of nail polish on her head for sale. At the local mall you can shop at Game for $20 bath towels and stop at the next store for a new blackberry followed by a delicious coke and juicy chicken dinner in the food court. In contrast, just twenty minutes down the road people are using a hole in the ground as a toilet and are sleeping in a building with an incomplete roof. Though the uneven distribution of wealth exists everywhere, it is exceptionally apparent in Ghana. Development of a nation is a process. Baring witness to it is exceptionally powerful and encouraging.

The Battle

He conquers who endures. --Persius

Tro-Tro (reminiscent of a Volkswagen van) versus Taxi. A journey to Osu for some speedy internet and delectable dinner was embarked upon by me and my colleagues. Before departure came the negotiations: 6 cedis? 8 cedis? Bargaining goes hand in hand with transportation here. We talked to the taxi driver and threw out our idea of a good price. Wait….wait….received the reply. Then to decide, would we take it or keep fighting for our price? Too much we say! A little chuckle and a wave of the hand from the determined driver, but eventually, a reasonable price is reached. All aboard!

So we crept through the busy streets at the 6 o’clock hour. Traffic was bumper to bumper…literally. The roadways are crowded here and vehicles are loaded with aggressive drivers. Our taxi came to an intersection and attempted to merge into traffic. However, the tro-tro next to us was not interested in letting us in. This tro-tro, packed with folks trying to get home and armed with a rather assertive man at the wheel, refused to let us in! His front right side skimmed the left front side of our taxi, and there was when the drama ensued. This isn’t uncommon. You don’t call the police or wait around for authorities to come swap insurance information. Rather, you just keep driving, or as our taxi driver did, reach out and pound your palm against the tro-tro, while yelling obscenities in Twi (common language in Ghana). The tro-tro inched ahead of us and seemingly won the battle. Rather than continue on and brush off the incident, our taxi driver sped behind the tro-tro and followed it down a side street coming within inches of its bumper. Eventually the tro-tro sped off, and we made a left turn to return to our original route. Our taxi driver continued to express his unhappiness, but still managed to safely deliver us to our destination.

Hard to call a winner in this battle. This time around, I’m going to side with my persistent and determined taxi driver. He seemed like he had good intentions and he got us where we needed to go. No worries my friends. Such incidents come with the territory and are part of the experience of traveling in Accra. I thrive on the thrill of it. Keeps things interesting. I know, I know, as if my simply being here isn’t interesting enough, right? ☺

Arrival in Accra

“A person is a success if they get up in the morning and gets to bed at night and in between does what he wants to do.” Bob Dylan

So I ate some almonds on the plane. For those of you fine-feathered-friends of mine that know me, then you know what this means. For those of you who don’t know me, I will throw you a hint – pain. Despite this small glitch regarding my personal comfort, safe arrival in Accra with all of my luggage in hand. Only however after a 7 hour flight, an 8 hour layover, and another 6 hour flight. Phew. Needless to say, sleep was number one on my agenda when I arrived to The Hotel Georgia in Accra. After a nice lengthy twelve-hour rest, the Ghana Crew met with Mr. Kwesi for a short introduction to the week and a half ahead, which will be spent in Accra. He says no one is allowed to leave because that would be a waste of America’s tax dollars. Being that I’m working for a government funded organization, I found this rather entertaining. Love a man with a mind on the economy.

Being in Accra feels as if I haven’t left Chicago. Already have a trip to the shopping mall under my belt. A mall you ask? Yes, one that has a movie theater, an apple store, and a store called Game aka Wal-Mart. I ate some chicken nuggets at the Chicken Inn and I people-watched as throws of people roamed the mall searching for love, clothes, or like me, a gallery of people to gaze at. I know I’m not in Kansas any more, but Accra is the Africa that most people don’t know about and it’s not all that different from the city of Chicago that you all know and love. Taxis, hotels lining the streets, men and women wearing the latest fashions, banks, atms, wifi galore. Not too long ago I was at a friend’s cookout and a young man there told me to watch out for the people in the bush who will want to chase me down with spears. At least for the next 10 days while I’m in Accra, I think I can rest assured that no spears will be heading my way in this fairly well-developed city.

The Long Awaited Departure

Two roads diverged in a wood, and I…I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference -- Robert Frost

Over three years ago I embarked on my first journey to an enchanting nation. I spent one month living in Teshi Tebibiano, right outside of Osu, Ghana and made the decision to return to Africa some day and work as an educator. That time has come. Holy smokes…I can hardly believe it! I’m leaving on a jet plane…

The last few months have been a whirlwind. It all began with an acceptance letter on May 16 that would change the course of my life. Back to Ghana I would go to work at a teacher training college. To say I was thrilled would be the understatement of the year. I jumped around like a fool in the courtyard of my apartment, called my mother, texted all of my people, and then proceeded to celebrate with a piece of Piece. Jump ahead a few months and I’m hit with 110 degrees in Phoenix, Arizona. You want to go to Ghana, Amy? Well, get settled and soak it all in. A weeklong orientation filled with every acronym you could imagine, an inspiring group of educators, and a boatload of information that would help me find success in my new position.

The time spent with my family and friends in the past few months has been nothing short of superb. From Chicago to Kankakee to Bridgman to Lake Shafer to Atlanta. Oh yea, and an emergency room visit thrown in the mix as well, just to keep things interesting. Thanks to my people, I’ve got a plethora of memories packed and ready to take with me to the motherland.

So, it turns out, suitcases fill up really fast. And preparing for a 10-month journey abroad is no blue-light special. Goodbyes are bittersweet, but I’m doing this. After years of contemplating and daydreaming, I’m finally really doing this. See you later America, this girl is headed to Ghana!